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Heaven on Earth !!
The two and a half hour road transfer from Tawau Airport and 40 min boat ride from
Semporna Jetty were immediately forgotten when stepping onto the jetty of Mabul's
Sipadan Water Village Resort. A magnificent waterworld constructed completely on
stilts extending from Mabul Island, welcomed me!
Days were spent in extraordinarily beautiful surroundings and tropical paradise bliss.
Exquisite wooden water-bungalows combined with warm and friendly staff, great food,
exotic blue ocean and breathtaking views were only to be surpassed in beauty
by the view under the water ....
Marvels of macrolife satiate Mabul where I discovered strange and wonderful creatures
lying in wait for me on the silty and muddy bottom, only to be even further enhanced by the
extreme efficiency of the dive centre and knowledge of the divemasters and instructors,
most of which have been employed there for over six or nine years.
The muck dives and even a 'metal reef' dive, yielded incredible sights of huge yet invisible
fro gfish in all colours waiting for their unsuspecting prey, camouflaged crocodile fish congregating
and lying in ambush, tiny pink squat lobsters, demon-like scorpion fish of all sizes and in an
exquisite tapestry of colours. And as I watched, I too was being observed by many hidden eyes
peeping out of dark crevices everywhere. Different species of eel make their home here, some of
them giant sized! Three boat dives a day and as many shore entry dives as one can do are the
order of each day, to be topped off with spectacular guided night dives.
To my excitement their house reef aptly name 'Paradise' produced a colourful display of corals
and many reef fish, with many giant anenome's and resident clown fish, countless species of
luminous nudibranchs, huge puffer fish, garden eels as abundant as seagrass, and to my delight
even a juvenile harlequin sweetlips swimming around like a puppy on drugs.
The macrolife is further emphasised at Palau Sipadan's Kapalai Resort. Not even a 15min
boat ride away, this exclusive resort-on-stilts is situated on a patch of brilliant turquoise sea,
with a tiny strip of sandbank being the only exposed land. This innovative concept is comprised
of a chain of roomy and well equipped chalets, each with private balcony and linked by long
wooden walkways. Centred around an open restaurant and sundeck, Kapalai offers a fine background
for the colourful denizens of the deep.
Once again extremely close dive sites, an excellent dive centre and knowledgeable
divemasters lead you on a unique journey of discovery into a world of tiny dragonets, emperor shrimp,
technicoloured flamboyant cuttlefish, impressive displaying giant cuttlefish and rare blue-ribbon eels.
These shallow reefs are an unparalleled kingdom for ravishingly coloured nudibranchs, glimmering gobies,
sea stars, shy seahorses, ornate ghost pipe fish and rare baby lobsters which dance among the corals.
Not to mention my personal favourite - the elusive psychedelic mandarin fish which is best
seen in the haze of sunset just a few metres down in front of the resort.
At Kapalai I soon realised, anything is possible, with unsurpassed opportunities for even the most
discriminating observer and macro photographer.
If it is possible for one to ever have enough of the many macro
marve ls at Mabul and Kapali,
just a further 15 min away, Sipadan awaits with many opportunities to view many species of
natural wonders and large fish action.
Just a small island created by a prehistoric volcano and surrounded by lush tropical forest
ringed by a pristine white sandy beach, Sipadan offers shallow coral reefs teeming with thousands
of angelfish, butterfly fish, parrotfish, triggerfish, morays, leaf fish and scorpion fish. These reefs
suddenly give way to vertical drop offs disappearing into the abyss below patrolled by hammerheads
and mantas, visited by thresher sharks, orcas and whales.
Palau Sipadan were once again my welcoming accommodators providing for my every comfort,
and their professional divemasters my guides, going out of their way to ensure each dive was better
than the last - which if it must be said - isn't such a difficult task! In a single dive I stared in amazement
at no less than a dozen gigantic turtles on all sides, white tip reef sharks patrolling the wall and
grey reef sharks lazing on the sandy outcrops. A single smirking yellow tail barracuda accompanied
me as I rounded Barracuda Point and clung to a protruding rock as the current swept past me threatening
to end my visit here way too soon. Fortunate enough to find myself in the best possible position,
I became the observer to a shimmering school of barracuda and a glinting ball of jacks stationary
beside me as they swam against the current.
A lone enormous humphead wrasse completed an exhilarating dive, and Sipadan completed
what undoubtedly has been one of the most diverse, memorable and fulfilling experiences of my life.
I headed home taking with me a wealth of memorable moments and unforgettable experiences,
while leaving behind only bubbles.
DANIELA SCOTTI
REEFCOMBER TOURS
For further details on these islands and
their package prices:
Click
Here for Mabul
Click
Here for Sipidan
Click
Here for Kapalai
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