Equipment
Advice: |
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What's it for?
To keep an air-space in front
of our eyes.
Do I NEED it?
No, but…...
How does it work? Masks are usually made up of a lense, skirt, frame, and strap. The lense creates a flat "window" for us to see through into the water. It has to be flat to prevent distortion of the light due to refraction as it passes through the various mediums of water, glass, and air*. The skirt creates a seal between the lense and our face to keep the water out of our eyes and an air space in front of them. The frame holds the lense and the skirt together and provides somewhere to attach the strap. The strap simply holds the mask in place on our face in to prevent it being knocked off if it gets bumped. * A new mask has just been brought out with a curved lense - I am dying to try it out and see if you really can see straight using it!
Common Mistakes & Misconceptions…
Absolutely not true! In fact I often remove my mask to adjust it, or simply enjoy the feeling of breathing underwater with nothing on my face - just remember…don't breathe through your nose!
"If my strap comes off or breaks, my mask won't work" Another common fallacy. If you keep slightly less pressure inside the mask than out, the water pressure will hold it against your face without the need for a strap. Or simply hold one finger on the front of your mask to keep it in place - be careful which finger, though, as your buddies could get offended… Remember to EQUALISE your MASK… Your ears are not the only things you need to equalise. As you descend, increasing water pressure will tend to push your mask onto your face unless you equalise the air pressure inside with the water pressure outside.
How do I do this? Just exhale through your nose and it will happen automatically - and probably clear any water in there at the same time.
What if I don't? At the very least your mask will be uncomfortable. You could also get bloodshot eyes and/or a total facial "hickie" (love bite) the likes of which you will never get at a nightclub! In extreme cases eyes can be permanently damaged.
"I can't breathe if there's water in my mask" Yes you can… Just relax and breathe in and out through your mouth or in through your mouth and out through your nose. Sometimes it helps to hold your nose until you re-establish a normal breathing pattern.
What to look for…
Your face is one of the most sensitive parts of your body. If you want to spend any length of time with something on your face, you will want it to fit comfortably and create a good seal. To test it… Hold your hair out of the way and off your face. Loop the strap out of the way over the front of the mask. Place the mask skirt on your face in the position in which you intend to wear it. Ensure there is no hair caught under the skirt and that the skirt is not creased, as either of these will prevent a proper seal. Breathe in through your nose and the mask should suck onto your face and stay there without you holding it.
If you cannot feel or hear air leaks, the mask
fits - if air can't get in, neither can water.
Low profile… No, this doesn't mean it is so ugly you don't want anyone to know about it… Low profile simply means it sticks out from your face as little as possible. There are several reasons for this: There is less air space to be affected by changes in surrounding water pressure so it takes less equalising. It also means that if your mask fills with water there is a lot less of it to get out and is therefore easier to clear. Air underwater likes going up. The more air, the larger the upward force. In other words, a high profile mask with a large air space will tend to try and ride up your face attempting to take your nose with it. Most uncomfortable! Note: For those of us better endowed in the proboscis department, certain masks have larger nose pockets than others. If one can't be found to fit, a higher profile mask may be the only option.
Well draining… Water caught inside should have a simple and direct method of escape. If you fill a mask with water and then tilt it until the lens is vertical, all the water should drain out. This means it will be easier to clear underwater.
The skirt… Mask skirts are made of various materials including rubber, silicone and plastic. The best by far is silicone, as it lasts longer, is softer and moulds to your face better than the others. It is, of course, more expensive, but well worth it! If you want to save money, buy a good mask the first time and look after it. The lens Most masks sold today have tempered (hardened) glass - make sure yours does. It should be indicated on the lens. This ensures that if the lens should break, it will shatter like a windscreen, but is less likely to throw glass in your eyes.
Tips! Have your own mask and snorkel… It is more hygienic and you'll get used to the feel of your own. Your mask will mould to your face.
Rubber and silicone…don't mix! Don't leave rubber (especially black rubber) next to something silicone such as your mask's skirt. It will put a nasty tobacco-coloured stain in the silicone, which won't come out.
Does your mask fog up? Purchase some anti-fog solution (available from most dive shops). Spread it across the inside of the lens, then lightly rinse. Or…spit in it! It works just the same. Does your new mask fog up? Clean the lens well inside with either toothpaste or a cleaning liquid like Jif. When masks are manufactured, a shiny coating is put on to keep them looking good in the shops. This coating on the lens can cause it to fog up repeatedly no matter how much you spit in it - or at it…
Don't leave your mask face down… You'll scratch the lens. Keep your mask separate… ..or keep it in a case. This avoids damage when transporting gear in the same bag.
And the Golden Rule... |
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PREVIOUS ADVICE: Regulator
Maintenance
Check the first stage high-pressure inlet for discoloration. Red or brown indicates rust in the tank, black indicates carbon from a bad compressor filter, white or blue/green indicates water has entered the first stage. Any discoloration calls for a visual inspection of the tank and overhaul of the regulator. Make sure the dust cap is not cracked, and replace it if it is. Make sure the cap is firmly in place, or it will leak water into the first stage when you wash it. Push back the hose protectors and check the hoses for bulges near swedge fittings. Check hoses throughout their length for cracks, fraying, abrasion, etc. Replace any suspect hoses now. Check the mouthpiece and tie wrap for cracks, and replace now if needed. Check gauges and computer for moisture under the face. Schedule immediate repair by professionals if you find any. Check for leaks. If an air leak is not corrected by tightening the hose slightly or replacing its O-ring, or if water leaks into the mouthpiece, take it for immediate repair by a professional. Regulator Repair Tips On-Site Regulator
Breakdowns: What To Do Free-flowing second stage: The purge may be stuck. With the system pressurized, work the purge button while flushing fresh water through the exhaust tee. Hold the second stage under water and "shake" it to flush. You may be able to dissolve salt or dislodge sand, freeing the purge. Warning: Do not depress the purge on a regulator second stage while immersed unless it is pressurized. Broken tie wrap: No spare tie wrap? You can secure the mouthpiece with a piece of wire. Wrap it around and twist the ends together with pliers to tighten the wire. Or use strong string or heavy thread: tie a small loop in one end, wrap the string around the mouthpiece, pass the end through the loop and pull back to tighten. The loop acts like a pulley with a 2:1 purchase, doubling the tightness of the string. Then tie a knot. Air leaks: If there's a leak at the hose connection to the first stage, it may be corrected by tightening (slightly) the leaking hose. Don't overdo it. Better to replace its O-ring. Regulator Annual
Maintenance Regulator Storage Transporting Regulators Tips for Washing Your
Regulator |
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PREVIOUS ADVICE: Tips for
gear owners Have your own gear The best way to avoid problems with dive gear is to use your own equipment; this way you know its maintenance record, history and performance quirks. Your gear will tend to take on a personality of its own, developing an individual set of performance characteristics and familiar feel. Some pieces of equipment even mould to the shape of your body (your mask or exposure suit for example). Hiring or borrowing gear means you will have to adjust to the feel and performance level of these different items. You also won’t know it’s cleanliness or performance. Look after your gear and have it regularly maintained by a professional…
Your gear is your life support, so give it the attention and care it deserves. Don't try to fix or service technical equipment such as regulators and BCD’s yourself. Make sure that whoever is servicing them has had specific training for your equipment brand and model. All models are not the same and many require specialised techniques, tools and parts.
Wash everything well in fresh water after
use… There are special wetsuit cleaning solutions on the market that can help prevent your suit smelling and kill any bugs that may be tempted to take up residence. There are also some general-purpose dive gear disinfectants that are good for keeping equipment ,such as your regulator, clean. Be careful not to use cleaners that could harm the material or are toxic.
Drip-dry gear out of the sun… Make sure your gear is properly dry before packing it away, or your nose is likely to get a nasty surprise when you next climb into your equipment. Avoid drying gear in direct sunlight, as this ages both rubber and silicon products. Store it somewhere dry but not too hot… Avoid storing your gear in heated cupboards, as it will tend to dry out too much and perish.
Lubricate…but don't overdo it! Make sure that anything that needs lubricating is lubricated regularly. This is not just to reduce friction but also helps prevent corrosion and perishing. But don't overdo it. All that is required is a thin coating of silicon grease or, where necessary, silicon spray. Too much grease can act as a dirt trap and actually reduce the performance of the gear. Foreign bodies can create obstructions to moving parts and damage seals.
Don't use petroleum-based lubricants… Firstly, they can explode under pressure (i.e. water pressure and air pressure). Secondly, many are toxic and may give off noxious fumes that can become extremely dangerous when breathed under pressure. Thirdly, they can perish rubber and silicon parts. And, lastly, they taste bad…
Don't drop gear or leave it where it can get crushed… A lot of your equipment is delicate and expensive. Don't leave it where it can fall and break or can have things drop onto it. Dive tanks and weight belts are common culprits for damaging other equipment. Be especially careful on boats, as they are inclined to wobble and cause things to topple over.
If it can fall over-board, it probably will… When boat diving, be careful not to leave your gear anywhere there is even a minuscule possibility it could slip over the side. Even floating items become impossible to sight in a massive expanse of water, especially when conditions are rough. |
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PREVIOUS ADVICE: Never do this to your gear! Never dump weights on your neoprene. Dents are likely to be permanent, and represent lost insulation (because the insulating bubbles are crushed). Never fold a neoprene suit for storage. Creases are likely to become permanent. Never put hard bends and kinks in hoses. The hose will be weakened where it is bent. Never use any oil-based lubricant. Petroleum attacks neoprene and silicone. Never store your gear wet. Salt crystals form and harden; mold and mildew has a chance to grow. Never store weights on top of other gear. Not only wetsuits, but BCs, regulator hoses, masks and fins can be permanently weakened or deformed. Never store fins standing on their tips. The tips may bend permanently. Never leave your tank empty with the valve open. Humidity and dust will enter the tank. Moisture promotes rust. Never blow air into the high-pressure inlet of your first stage. You are likely to force moisture or dust inside the first stage Never spray silicone on any strap, valve or device you breathe with. Silicone makes straps so slippery that buckles may not hold, and it can cause regulator parts to unseat.
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